22.11.2019 Serengeti under the Canvas
As in all Safari mornings, we were again up and about early , around 0500 am for me. After a quick breakfast of eggs and sausages cooked over wood fire ,some fruits and washed down with some Tea and coffee we again set off on our game drive along with Molly , Andrew and Daniel our guide .
The woodland all around resounded to the sound of the Ranting Cisticolas , Rufous Larks , Flapping larks and such like small birds . We drove along the main thoroughfare, a dirt road fairly ridged in the middle so that the land cruiser mostly crept along the sides to avoid the bumps . It was not busy at this time of the morning.
We saw a buffalo sharpening its horns on a hedge and at a distance enormous giraffes on the hillside in the distance
Soon we arrived at a really narrow bridge with no railings , over a fast flowing river . The morning sunlight shone on a Pied kingfisher by the river and then two enormous crocodiles emerged , whom we mistook for rocks initially . The river here flowed downstream at a fast clip and broadened .
Suddenly we were aware of a commotion and somebody whispered urgently “ Lion” !
But it was not a Lion .
Two Thomson gazelles sprang down the defile , from the river embankment and behind them was a magnificent big male Leopard . One of the Gazelles leapt into the river , while the other turned right along the embankment and straight in front of it was the enormous crocodile , which alerted by the commotion had turned quickly .
It was an amazing unbelievable sight . A Tommie trapped in between a large leopard and a crocodile .
The Tommy jinked to one side and avoided the crocodile with its open snapping jaws and ran off in to the grassy banks on the side .
The other Thomson’s gazelle in the meanwhile came back across the river , slipping and falling in the hidden rocks. Somehow the gazelle eluded the crocodiles and vanished on to side of the the embankment .
The Leopard also vanished from view , round the corner , chasing the gazelles . We waited for the denouement ! But there was no further noise and we rightly assumed that the tommies had made a miraculous escape and the Leopard suffered a chance missed .
What a magnificent sighting !
All four of us were agog with excitement and only managed to get parts of the hunt on to the camera . The entire sequence of events happened in a flash and been witness to it was itself its own reward , let alone record it .
There is however photographic evidence of the gazelle stuck between the crocodile with its jaws open and the leopard about to spring .
It was dramatic , exciting and nay thrilling start to a wonderful day !
We drive around still trying to catch one more glimpse of that beautiful male leopard . We tried to head back to the river . At one point we crossed the stream on a road half submerged in overflowing water . In the. River we spied enormous hippos . Then some wonderful sightings of two African Grey headed Kingfishers been harried by a little bee-eater couple . The Kingfishers shown iridescent in their electric blue coloring , excitedly flying in jinking runs along the river embankment .
In a distance the hippos wallowed and snorted . We further spotted some Water Thick-Knee on the bank and a large crocodile barely visible with its snout poking out of the water . Just wonderful .
We left the spot and then went back towards the direction that we had set ourselves originally on with the intent of spotting more predators and birds .
In a while we went spotting cheetahs in an area known for them and soon enough we saw a pair . We felt very happy with our day especially because we saw the couple of Cheetahs hiding in the grass in the distance . Not very visible, but still a good sighting .
We waited a bit and then drove along . This time in search of lions along a different route .
At a point alongside a river we saw a slender mongoose on the top of an open mound and then an African Fish Eagle in the distance .
We soon turned back and went looking for leopards amongst the high Kopje’s. To our surprise at one such outcrop we found a pack of hyenas relaxing and looking completely satiated . One was even having a mud bath . These Spotted Hyenas have an undeserved reputation as bad actors on the African Savannah . Actually they have enormous courage and are very social creatures .
We were just about to drive away when Daniel looked back and said “ Lions “ ! He must have had
eyes at the back of his head , the way he spotted a pride basking on the top of a rock ! The lions , obviously at siesta time , after a kill were crowded around a single tall rock cropping , sleeping with nary a care in the world , limbs akimbo , one even hanging a paw on the branch of an overhanging tree . It was all very bucolic !
After a while we left the lions to themselves and then drove down to another rocky outcrop which dotted the landscape in these parts .
There we saw an beautiful barn owl tucked away in the narrow crack in the rock , further up a rock hyrax and a couple of rare Speckled rock pigeons !
Further heartened by these sightings ,we drive on to another outcrop where we saw a beautiful Klipspringer or mountain antelope , a little antelope with very sure footing , striking a pose atop a rock !
Amongst the bushes dotting the landscape , Daniel showed us Hyena dens which we would have never have recognized unless pointed out . Several of them had residents !
By now we were hungry and Daniel proposed that we have a picnic lunch beneath a lonely acacia tree on the enormous plain .
All of us helped set up the for lunch , and we had very satisfying picnic comprising of Quiches. Fresh avocado salad , wrap around fish taco makings and other comestibles ! All the while gazing at a distance on to Wildebeests and Zebras at a distance . Very nice !
We discovered the scattered remains of a kill of some unfortunate herbivore at the picnic spot , enough to remind us that we were not the only ones to have a magnificent meal beneath this tree .
After the lunch , I was dozing a little bit while the others chattered desultorily while Daniel drove . Suddenly Andrew said in a sibilant whispered Lion .
There amongst the reed break , sat the most enormous kid handsome lion we had ever seen . It was just like model from a hollywood movie . Really debonair with a black mane in its prime and just outstandingly beautiful . We took pictures to our hearts content and then left it reluctantly .
I used to be a Hollywood Model !
As we drove along , with me fully awake now , talking about what we had seen when suddenly we saw a couple of vehicles up ahead who seemed to have spotted some more lions .
This time we were met with the sighting of a life time . Four lions : two lionesses and two male lions all in their prime, about 10-12 years old out on a hunt . The two lionesses led the other two lions and strode down the side of the road for a good ten minutes , looking as if they owned everything , walking on to the dirt road itself with complete insouciance , completely ignoring the racing land cruisers trying to get ahead for the best angle . They looked self assured as they marched in single file , with more than a hint of disdain for us . They marched along as if they had a plan in place , while we spectators were besides ourselves with excitement , and used our cameras to capture the moment .
The two male lions were particularly impressive specimens .Every inch the regal kings of their domains , with wonderful fawn colored and dark manes , an embodiment of strength and grace !
Daniel had positioned our vehicle very well and we managed to get really good pictures . Soon the Lions led away for the road and then marched onto the open veldt where our vehicles could not follow . They slowly disappeared into the distance .
A walk on the wild side
We left the lions to their wanderings and drove across the unending Savannah and spotted a herd of elephants . We watched the antics of couple of baby elephants in the grass while the matriarchs of the family led the herd to greener pastures to graze .
As we finally wended our way back home , we came across a pack of banded mongoose foraging in the grass. These mongoose are the scourge of snakes and have the meerkat like endearing habit of standing on their hind legs on termite mounds and peering into the distance .
band of brothers ..
We came back to the same bridge , where we had seen such drama in the morning .Ahead of us was another AndBeyond vehicle and since Daniel had radioed ahead, they had looked for the same male Leopard , whom we had seen hunting in the morning .
The leopard was sleeping on the bluff above the river not to be disturbed by anything ! We waited and waited , the leopard lifted its head a couple of times and went back to sleep . A soft breeze was blowing , the sylvan surroundings was quiet and beautiful . No wonder the leopard kept sleeping . Made us think , perhaps he had after all made a kill. Light was fading and we reluctantly left the leopard behind and came back to our camp .
After a nice hot bath , I and Huvi decided to walk back to the main camp from our tent .
We were resting , tired in a pleasant way , before we had a shower , sitting outside the tent under the awning late evening listening to the jungle sounds , when suddenly a huge buzzing strange sound filled the air . We were wondering what was the noise , when suddenly a big swarm of large African Bees surrounded us ! We were totally unprepared and luckily we were not stung . We beat a hasty retreat , in confusion , into the tent and zipped ourselves in and put out of the lights . We laughed and laughed at our consternation and surprise .
In a while the bees retreated leaving us to the sounds of a distant hyena and baboons squabbling in the huge fig tree by the hidden stream , past the glade .
A roaring campfire was in place for the guests to gather around . With a couple of drinks in our hand , we waited for Daniel as he had promised that he would tally our birds and animals before we left from Serengeti Under the Canvas .
We counted all the species of birds , that we had seen in Serengeti on the thoughtfully drawn up list provided by AndBeyond in the Landcrusier . We were told that this comprehensive list was been discontinued in other camps to be replaced with only a list of Star Birds and Mammals . That is not a correct decision as the booklet was of great help to birders such as us .
We rallied a total of 110
that we had spotted and photographed in Serengeti which was great going ! We felt very happy and enormously indebted to Daniel .
Dinner was without lights ! Because of the rain , lots of small bugs and flying ants were besieging the candles placed on the tables . However the meal as always , fresh tandoori chicken and Koftas served on our plate straight from the skewer , fresh salad and home made Majo bread was a satisfying meal to end the wonderful day .
We repaired to bed happy and replete ? A little sad at the prospect of leaving Serengeti under the Canvas but excited to go to Lake Manyara.
Travels with Huvi et Tufan 